Over the many runs in a month, some are particularly memorable. This is where I keep a record of at least one of these special runs each month so I can look back and say – ah yes, I did that, that was cool.
For you, this could be inspiration for you to run an epic run a month, or act as a route guide for you to follow on these epic trips.
If you happen to travel to Hong Kong or live in Hong Kong, I recommend getting a run on this route as one of the best ways to see and feel the nature side of the city.
November is the perfect time to explore the mountains of Hong Kong with the cooler weather, fall colors, and dry crisp clear air.
For this month’s Run of the Month, I challenged the biggest island in Hong Kong – Lantau Island. I attempted to run from the eastern port of Mui Wo to the western port of Tai O along the mountain ridges of Sunset Peak, Lantau Peak, and Keung Shan. This splits the island in 2 halves.
This was also part of a virtual race organized by TGR Trail Running that was to be run in the month of November 2020.
Most of the running takes place on dirt trails.
Being away from the city and immersed in the nature is one of the main goals of this run.
The full distance is 27.6km with 1650 metres of climb, which may take anywhere from 4 hours (Fit trail runners) to 12 hours (slowly walking the whole trail).
For those who have physical or time constraints, this can be divided into shorter sections with the help of public transportation. Combine the following sections to fit your needs. I will detail each section in the following parts. Public Transportation information will also be detailed below.
- Mui Wo to Nam Shan
(2.2km | 150m climb | concrete sidewalk | 20min – 45min) - Nam Shan to Pak Kung Au
(6.2km | 650m climb | 450m descent | trails | 1 hour – 3.5 hours) - Pak Kung Au to Ngong Ping
(7.2km | 650m climb | 550m descent | trails | 1.5 hours – 4 hours) - Ngong Ping to Tai O
(12.0km | 200m climb | 650m descent | 30% concrete sidewalk 70% trails | 1.5 hours – 4 hours)
These are some of the most breath-taking trails in Hong Kong with lots of photo opportunities. You might want to add some extra time for pictures as well!
Let’s Run!
Epic Runs in Hong Kong – Cross Lantau Island Run
Mui Wo to Tai O
27.6km | 150m climb | 80% dirt trails | 4-12 hours
While running the whole route in one go is quite an achievement, don’t be stressed in doing it all at once. This route (even a section of it) is totally worth the trip if you have time in Hong Kong.
I made 3 attempts throughout November.
First time at 4am to watch the sunrise, and end at Pak Kung Au. (Highly Recommended)
Second time from noon but I got overheated and ran out of fuel half way, and struggled to complete the run before sunset (I got to see tan amazing sunset though)
Third time at 9am with proper fuelling to tackle the whole length feeling well.
Different times give different experiences, and I appreciated every chance I got to be in these beautiful hills.
Here’s the map of the route which I ran from east (Mui Wo) to west (Tai O). The 4 sections are separated by bus stops at Nam Shan (2.2km), Pak Kung Au (8.4km), and Ngong Ping (15.6km).
I noted the bus stops, replenishment spots, and some major photo spots in the map.
Most of the route is along Lantau Trail with well placed signs. Silver signs showing L0XX are placed roughly every 500m for distance/location indication, and to show you are on the correct trail.
Be aware that there is no replenishment at Pak Kung Au, so if you are doing sections 2 and 3 together, make sure you carry enough liquid and fuel. For nutrition needs, see my post on The Complete Guide to Nutrition for Runners.
For my runs, I brought 1,500ml of water and 4 to 5 packs of gel. I added an extra 1,000ml of water at the 7-Eleven at Ngong Ping (15.6km). Most of the trail is quite exposed, so bring extra water for warmer days.
Experience Along the Route from Mui Wo to Tai O
If you have a free day and got tired of the city, make a trip to Lantau Island for some of the best nature in Asia. Throughout the trip, you’ll see old villages, expansive views of the ocean, step on the highest accessible point in the city, enjoy spectacular mountain ranges, and might run into various wildlife.
This is a very different side of Hong Kong that I highly recommend for a day in Hong Kong. The finish at Tai O is called the Venice of Hong Kong with lots of culture and plenty to see.
I’ll go through the 4 different sections of the trail below.
1. Mui Wo Ferry Pier to Nam Shan (Lantau Trail Section 1)
2.2km | 150m Climb | Concrete Sidewalk | 20-45min
Make sure to visit one of the few remaining colonial-era postboxes in between the Mui Wo pier and the bus terminus.
This section (Also Lantau Trail Section 1) is mainly a connector between the ferry pier and the trails. It is on the sidewalk of a concrete road without many views.
Feel free to skip this part as it is only here for the achievement factor of crossing the island from one side to the other side.
Any bus from Mui Wo bus terminus can take you to Nam Shan in 5 minutes if you choose to skip this section.
For those who want to run/walk or are too early for the bus (before 6:35am), the walk is manageable on easy ground. Not much to see though.
2. Nam Shan to Pak Kung Au (Lantau Trail Section 2)
6.2km | 650m climb | 450m descent | Trails | 1 – 3.5 hours
This starts the fun. I’ll mark Nam Shan at 2.2km even if you skipped the first section.
Walk under the Lantau Trail Sign to start this section (Also Lantau Trail Section 2) and start running on dirt trails with signs that lead to “Pak Kung Au via Sunset Peak”.
At 2.7km (500m from Nam Shan) after a series of steps, you’ll arrive at a helicopter pad. From here, you get the first glimpse of the mountains ahead and a view of the Mui Wo villages to your right.
After a short stretch of downhill, you begin the long stretch of uphill that will take you on a 600m elevation gain.
At 3.4km, there’s a short zig zag where you emerge out of the trees and can get spectacular views behind (east) to Mui Wo (last view) and left to the beaches of Pui O.
At 4.8km, you arrive at a saddle for expansive views of the mountains ahead and the shoreline of south Lantau. This would be a good spacious rest spot to take in the views and reward yourself for completing the toughest parts of the climb in this section. Approx. 580m elevation now.
At 5.0km, there’s an intersection (Sheung Tung Au). Stay to the left.
If you are extra energetic, you can make an out-and-back detour to the right to the peak of Lin Fa Shan 766m (visible following the direction of the trail) for extra achievement. 0.7km 160m climb about 20 minutes one way.
At 5.7km, after getting some shade, you arrive at the next intersection. Stay left to continue on the route and up the hill. The trail to the right leads you down to Tung Chung (3.7km 680m descent) for escape to civilization.
At 5.9km, my favorite stretch of the trail begins. Here you’re at 720m elevation on the ridge of some of the tallest hills in Hong Kong with great expansive views. The houses (Lantau Mountain Camps) add to the view.
If you can, spend some time in this area for pictures and enjoy one of the best that Hong Kong can offer in terms of nature.
If you are early enough (started the walk from Mui Wo at 4am), this area is amazing to watch the sunrise.
The sunset is also equally beautiful, especially in fall with the golden Miscanthus blooming.
The route itself does not go to the peaks of the two mountains here, but you can add them if you feel energetic. Well worth it.
At 5.9km before sign L013, there’s a path behind you that leads up to Yi Tung Shan 749m (0.4km 30m climb 5 minutes one way)
At 6.2km after passing the camp/house marked 18, steer right for a smaller trail that leads to the top of Sunset Peak 869m (0.5km 120m climb 10-15 minutes one way). Stay left and remain on the main trail if you want to skip the detour follow the route.
At 6.5km, you arrive at the highest point of this section (800m), look back to enjoy your accomplishment, and look forward for the first glimpse of Lantau Peak (your next peak if you decide to continue after this section.)
Straight downhill from here for the next 2km with Lantau Peak ahead of you, the south shores of Lantau Island to your left, and Tung Chung and the airport to your right.
At 8.4km, you arrive at a pagoda and hear the sounds of traffic. You’ve arrived at Pak Kung Au 325m after a rapid 470m descent.
Cross the road (be safe) and you can
- Choose to end your trip by taking any bus northbound to Tung Chung MTR, or
- Continue on to section 3 up spectacular Lantau Peak
3. Pak Kung Au to Ngong Ping (Lantau Trail Section 3)
7.2km | 650m climb | 550m descent | Trails | 1.5 – 4 hours
Brave souls that continue, or newcomers to this section, kudos to you!
Make sure you have at least 500ml of water and some food for this section. It’s not long but the uphill and downhill gets quite tough.
In one of my runs, my body ran out of fuel half-way uphill and it was a long struggle to make it to the other end.
Pak Kung Au is marked at 8.4km even if you skipped sections 1 and 2. (You can do the math yourself)
Follow signs up to Lantau Peak (stairs immediately) along Lantau Trail Section 3. Enjoy the uphill and the views around you.
At 10.6km close to sign L023 700m elevation, there are some secret trails (bypasses the peak) to the left and right for some amazing rock structures.
You can have a quick glimpse to the left (south) and see a narrow valley named the “Southern Gate”. I’ll talk about these trails in the future if anyone shows interest.
The main path keeps going up and up.
At 11.2km, you made it! You arrived at Lantau Peak 934m! The second highest peak in Hong Kong and the highest point the public can stand on in Hong Kong. (The highest peak in Hong Kong, Tai Mo Shan, restricts access to its peak)
Pick a rock top, grab a snack, walk around for a 360 panoramic view of Lantau Island and beyond. This is also another great sunrise and sunset spot, and sometimes where you can be above a sea of clouds.
Continue slightly left downhill along a narrow-ish ridge. Views that make you “Wow!” here.
At 11.6km, you arrive at Tsam Chai Au, a 4-way intersection to different jaw-dropping trails worth your next visit.
The left-most trail is the Lantau Peak South Cliffside Trail that connects back to the “Southern Gate”, last seen at 10.6km. This is a very technical trail views of some very interesting rock features.
The middle trail leads down to Kau Nga Ling (Dog’s Tooth Ridge), a narrow ridge that leads down to south Lantau Island.
The main right trail continues the downhill to Ngong Ping for a 350m descent. This includes a very steep staircase.
At 12.7km, you’ll run under the signs of Lantau Trail and see a colorful phoenix sculpture (Lantau Peak in Chinese is “Phoenix” Peak). To your left is the Wisdom Path (just something touristy more than anything else). Turn right for a relatively flat trail to continue for this section.
At 13.0km, you arrive at another intersection, continue uphill. The trail on the right downhill leads you all the way to Tung Chung MTR. (5km 450m descent concrete paved trail)
At 13.2km, turn left. Look back from here and you can see Sunset Peak and Lantau Peak which you just traversed.
Follow the trail and through the vegetation, you’ll see the big buddha on your left.
At 14.4km, turn left and run under the cable cars.
At 15.2km, you arrive at Ngong Ping Village and the Ngong Ping Cable Car Station.
Restaurants and convenient stores are available here if you need replenishments. You can also walk up the Buddha (another major tourist destination). There are some Tofu Pudding stores across the buddha for you to experience some local delicacies.
Here you can end your trip by leaving on the cable car or bus. Alternatively, you can continue on the route to Tai O if energy and daylight is on your side. Hiking down to Tung Chung under the cable cars is also an option.
15.6km is the marked end of this section, which is the entrance of Ngong Ping Village near the 7 Eleven convenience store.
4. Ngong Ping to Tai O via Keung Shan
12.0km | 200m climb | 650m descent | 30% concrete sidewalk 70% trails | 1.5 hours – 4 hours
Starting from Ngong Ping Village at 15.6km, follow the sidewalk of the main road (with cars) downhill for 2.5km.
At 18.1km, you arrive at an intersection, continue ahead onto the trails and head to the end of the lawn to start the climb up to Keung Shan.
The trails here are narrower due to its lower traffic. While other trails get busy in the weekends, this is a good trail of choice for equivalent expansive views of South Lantau Island minus the crowds.
At 20.2km, you arrive at the peak of Keung Shan 459m. Grab a panoramic picture. It’s mostly downhill from here to the finish. Continue downhill for the next 1.7km until you reach a concrete junction.
At 21.9km, turn left at the concrete junction. The wooden sign indicates an opposite direction (right) to Tai O (the final destination). This is a shorter path (3.2km, instead of 5.7km) to Tai O with less views. If you can tackle the extra distance, turn left! (You’ll see two lefts, both run parallel and arrive at the same spot)
At 22.2km, turn right at the sign of Man Cheung Po Campsite along the fences.
At 22.4km, stay right at the intersection towards Nga Ying Shan.
At 23.4km, you will see the view of the ocean to the west, splendid for a sunset.
At 24.2km, the Tai O View Compass has a great view of Tai O, your finish.
At 24.9km, after a steep downhill section, turn right and return to concrete trails all the way towards the finish. Stick on this trail and run alongside the promenade for the next 2.5km to your finish.
At 27.6km, you arrive at Tai O Pier, the finish!
Congratulations on crossing Lantau Island!
Now have a leisure walk around Tai O, the Venice of Hong Kong. Enjoy the quaint village, grab a snack at Solo Café while sitting by the waterfront, and soak in the sense of accomplishment of what you just did in the last 4-10 hours. Kudos to you!
Last bus to leave Tai O is at 0:15am to Tung Chung MTR.
If you want to stay the night, check out the Tai O Heritage Hotel for an experience through colonial times.
Access to the Route
I set the start point (eastern-most point) as Mui Wo Ferry Pier. There are only a few access points along the route with public transport access. Make sure you have sufficient water and food supplies in between access points.
You typically arrive in Lantau Island at 2 hubs: 1. Mui Wo Pier via ferry, or 2. Tung Chung via bus/MTR. These 2 hubs have bus access to all the 5 access point below.
Bus, ferry, and cable car are the only means of public transportation. Blue Taxis are also available on the island.
Fares will be indicated for adults in Hong Kong Dollars as (HKD Regular Fare/Sunday and Holiday Fare).
New Lantao Bus Company operates the buses.
Buses typically run from 6am to 1145pm but individual routes may vary.
Last bus from Ngong Ping leaves at 7:10pm.
N1 to Tai O operates a 3:45am service and N35 to HZMB Hong Kong Port operates 2 early morning services to/from Mui Wo.
The following is information for the 5 public transport access points along the route.
1st Access Point, Mui Wo Ferry Pier (0km)
Ferry
Central Ferry Pier (Pier No. 6), Hong Kong Island to Mui Wo Ferry operated by First Ferry with the schedule in this link.
The Ordinary (slow with open views) Ferry takes 50 minutes and the fast (enclosed and double the fare) ferry takes 30 minutes. See the fares (HKD 15-45) at First Ferry’s site here.
There are 1-2 ferries per hour that operate from 6am to midnight.
SUNRISE Seekers: There is a special ferry that operates at 3am from Central Pier No. 5, perfect if you want to see the sunrise at the peaks.
There is also an Inter Islands ferry that runs a shuttle between the islands of Cheung Chau, Ping Chau, and Chi Ma Wan (another part of Lantau) from 6am to 10pm.
The ferry runs along the following route and will pass by Mui Wo around once an hour.
Mui Wo – 20min -> Peng Chau – 20min -> Mui Wo – 15 min -> Chi Ma Wan – 20min -> Cheung Chau – 20min -> Chi Ma Wan – 15min -> Mui Wo
See the timetable with this link.
Fare is HKD12.3 for adults through 31 March 2021.
Bus:
Mui Wo Bus Terminus is right next to the Ferry Pier with the following bus routes to the rest of Lantau Island. All bus routes pass by Nam Shan, the 2nd access point along the running route.
1 to/from Tai O (Finish point of the running route) (HKD10.7/17.7) (45-minute journey)
2 to/from Ngong Ping (4th access point along the running route) (HKD17.2/27) (45-minute journey)
3M to/from Tung Chung (MTR Station) (HKD 10.5/16.2) (45-minute journey) via Pak Kung Au (3rd access point along the running route)
4 to/from Tong Fuk, for the beaches of South Lantau (HKD 5.6/10.8)
A35 to/from HZMB Hong Kong Port via Airport, Tung Chung (MTR) and Pak Kung Au (3rd access point) (HKD 16.8/27.0) Only runs at 5:30am, 7:25am, 5:00pm, 10:00pm, and 0:15am
N1 to/from Tai O (One bus from Mui Wo at 3:45 am, connects with the 3am ferry from Central)
N35 to/from HZMB Hong Kong Port via Airport, Tung Chung (MTR) and Pak Kung Au (3rd access point) (Runs at 3:15am and 4:20am from Mui Wo)
2nd Access Point, Nam Shan (2.2km)
Bus
All buses to/from Mui Wo will pass by this point, refer to Mui Wo bus information above.
3rd Access Point, Pak Kung Au (8.4km)
Bus
This is the only major road that connects North and South Lantau Island. All buses that travel between North and South Lantau Island must pass by this point. The following are options you can take from this point.
Northbound:
3M, 11, 11A to Tung Chung (MTR) (HKD6/11.8)
23 to Tung Chung (MTR) (HKD6.2/12.5)
A35 to/from HZMB Hong Kong Port via Airport and Tung Chung (HKD11.8/18.3) (limited runs)
N35 to/from HZMB Hong Kong Port via Airport and Tung Chung (HKD20.7/29.0) (approx. 3:40am and 4:45am)
Southbound
3M to Mui Wo (Start) (HKD10.5/16.2)
11 to Tai O (Finish) (HKD11.8/19.2)
11A to Shek Pik, Sundays and Holidays only (HKD8.5/14.5)
23 to Ngong Ping (4th Access Point) (HKD17.2/27.0)
A35 to Mui Wo (Start) (HKD11.3/18.5) (limited runs, just take 3M)
N35 to to Mui Wo (Start) (HKD15/23.5) (approx. 1:50am and 4:50am)
4th Access Point, Ngong Ping (15.6km)
Bus
Last bus 2 leaves to Mui Wo at 6:20pm for Weekdays and Saturdays, 6:45 for Sundays and Public Holidays. Last bus 23 leaves to Tung Chung at 7:10pm daily.
2 to/from Mui Wo (Start) (HKD17.2/27.0) (50-minute journey)
21 to/from Tai O (Finish) (HKD6.0/14.0) (Runs at 7:30 and 1-2 times an hour from 10:35am to 6:30pm)
23 to/from Tung Chung (MTR) (HKD17.2/27.0) (50-minute journey)
Cable Car
Ngong Ping 360 is famed as one of the most amazing cable car experiences that takes you down from Ngong Ping to Tung Chung MTR. This is a pricy but scenic option.
Ngong Ping 360 operates from 10am to 6pm and takes 25 minutes.
There are 2 types of cabins, the standard and the crystal (with a see-through bottom). Depending on your cabin choice, the price is between HKD160-215 one way and HKD230-315 round trip.
5th Access Point, Tai O (27.6km, Finish)
Ferry
An infrequent ferry service is operated by Fortune Ferry to/from Tuen Mun via Tung Chung.
From Tai O, ferries depart between 9:30am and 6:30pm every 1 to 2 hours depending on the day of the week.
From Tuen Mun, ferries depart between 7:00 and 5:00pm every 1 to 2 hours depending on the day of the week.
The trip to Tung Chung takes around 30 minutes (faster than bus), and the trip from Tai O all the way to Tuen Mun takes around 50 minutes.
Fare is between HKD21.6 to 32.5 depending on the day of the week and class of ferry. Pay in advance at the booth by the pier for weekends and public holidays. Pay on the ferry for weekdays.
Bus
1 to/from Mui Wo (Start) (HKD10.7/17.7) (Runs frequently between 5:30am and 0:10am) (45-minute journey)
11 to/from Tung Chung (MTR) (HKD11.8/19.2) (Runs frequently between 5:15am and 0:15am) (50-minute journey time)
21 to/from Ngong Ping (4th Access Point) (Runs hourly between 7:45am and 5:45pm) (20-minute journey time)
When to Run Across Lantau
The run is accessible any time in the year. I’ve done day and night, summer and winter. Different experiences but well worth the effort.
October to November is the best time to go for the cooler temperatures and a whole mountain of golden Miscanthus blooming. The mountains get busy during this period so start early in the day.
December to February are only slightly colder (around 10-15 degrees Celsius) but you can get away with smaller crowds.
March to April are humid months for chances to see a sea of clouds at Lantau Peak and Sunset Peak.
May to September are the hotter months of the year. Make sure you bring plenty of water for the lush green mountains and bright blue skies (when there isn’t a storm or typhoon.)
Conclusion
Wow, this post ended up quite long. I really wanted to give the all-you-need-to-know version of the best running in Lantau Island.
Kudos to you for getting this far!
I love this run of the month, and I did it because it was a virtual race organized by TGR Trail Running.
This route across Lantau Island along the peaks will be a deep part of my memory. Not only is it spectacular, I also did (all or parts of) it 3 times in 30 days.
For the sunrise, I took the 3am ferry from Central and hiked up to sunset peak to watch the sun rise from the horizon and see the Lantau Mountain Camps and hills light up.
For my first full route challenge, I ran at noon and got overheated and dehydrated half way. I learnt not to underestimate the mountains.
For the third and final route challenge, I started in the early morning breeze, brought enough water (0.5-1L for every estimated hour of running), and enough food (1 gel for every estimated hour of running with a chocolate bar back up). The whole journey was super pleasant and I felt very very accomplished.
This is a run to do if you have a free day in Hong Kong and you got tired of the city. The nature is spectacular.
I would highly recommend you give all or part of this route a try.
Let me know if you tried his run, or if you have questions about my run.
Go to Lantau and enjoy the mountains!
See my previous runs:
Beat the Tram Run, Hong Kong – Run of the Month Oct 20
Cross the Frog, Hong Kong Island – Run of the Month Sep 20
Some tips for running:
How to Become a Runner: A Comprehensive Guide for Your First Two Months
The Complete Guide to Nutrition for Runners
Can You Lose Weight By Running?
